Hyaluronic acid - how to properly use the king of skin hydration!
5 January 2021 Estimated time: ~2 min.
There is a lot of talk about the immense hydrating capacity of hyaluronic acid, but not at all about its incorrect use, with opposite results to those expected!
The equation for using hyaluronic acid is a bit more complex than "Dry skin + Hyaluronic acid = Hydrated skin". In some situations, the results obtained may be different from those expected, and instead of a beautiful, bright and supple skin, we find that our skin is just as dehydrated or even drier than before applying an AH serum.
First, let’s debunk some myths
Hyaluronic acid is not actually an acid, such as glycolic acid or salicylic acid, substances that exfoliate the skin. AH is a complex sugar, known as polysaccharide, which occurs naturally in the body, ensuring hydration of joints, hair, eyes and especially the skin.
As a natural ingredient, hyaluronic acid has become very popular as a dermal filler. Because it is not a foreign substance, the body tends to accept it, and therefore hyaluronic acid injections work great to smooth out wrinkles and "fill" the features.
When injected, hyaluronic acid works as an anti-aging agent, and when applied to the skin, it theoretically works as a moisturizing agent.
However, the hyaluronic acid molecule is too large to be easily absorbed by the skin, and the concentration of AH is also important. It is ideal to find products based on AH with medium to low molecular weight, which are easier to absorb and with a concentration of 1% sodium hyaluronate, which is equivalent to 100% HA. Any higher concentration would gel on the skin and dry it out, instead of providing maximum permeability to help moisturize the face.
Hyaluronic acid, also known as hyaluronan or hyaluronate, is a humectant. This means that it attracts moisture and is famous for its unique ability to retain up to 1000 times its weight in water!
So, since hyaluronic acid attracts moisture, beware of using it in its pure form on dehydrated skin and in dry climates! In hot and arid areas or in cold and dry climates, especially indoors, in winter, if AH cannot extract moisture from the air, it starts to come out of the skin, leaving the skin more thirsty and wrinkled than before use!
What to do, how do we apply it?
Here are three essential tips for the effective use of hyaluronic acid:
1. Always apply the AH serum on damp skin to allow the substance to draw water into the skin and not the other way around!
2. Use AH in a more complex serum formula, such as hyaluronic acid + vitamin C, for increased effectiveness, or apply it after another care serum, for additional hydration benefits
3. Preserves the moisturizing effect of AH by immediately applying a layer of facial oil and / or a moisturizer.